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Style Confessions of a (Slightly) Fat Man

05/02/2011

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Perhaps I've been spending too much time in my thinking chair (RE: Couch) lately, or maybe someone replaced all of my clothes with slightly smaller versions recently as a prank, but whatever the reason, things just aren't as they used to be.

I've never been what I would describe as fat. Pudgy maybe, chubby... jolly even. However, about three years ago I did drop a suit size (from 42 --> 40, most of it from my gut) and I haven't looked back since, until now. This is the first time that I've actually put on enough weight that I haven't been able to put on some of my favourite clothes. and I don't like it one bit.

Now, I'm not going to claim that I can share the frustration of men who weigh much more than I do when it comes to showing style, but I do think I understand it a little bit better now, and I will until I get rid of this spare tire (Ironically, my new workout plan consists of hauling around tires). See, now that a lot of my favourite clothes don't seem to fit, I'm feeling the pressure that comes with your body defining what you can and can't wear. It sucks. I really noticed it the other day after unpacking all of my summer clothing. I was putting on one of my favourite polos and noticed that my stomach was pressing against the polo a little more firmly than my chest. First I felt a little bad about myself, which was quickly replaced with a resolve to shave the extra pounds, which was then further replaced by a desire to eat a box of Oreos, which I consequently dialed back to that strong sense of resolve again.

There's no question that struggling with weight is something that can affect a guy's appetite or inclination towards dressing more stylishly, but I hope that any guys who are struggling with their weight and reading this don't let it stop them from trying to dress their best. To that end, I'm going to create some posts over the next several weeks about how to dress stylishly even if you're on the heavier side, and how to stay stylish as you're losing the weight like I am.

In the mean time, some photographic evidence. I specifically picked these two photos because my smile is the same in each of them so you can see where the weight came off:
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In more cherubic times, circa 2006.
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After losing 30 pounds of fat and gaining 10 pounds of muscle, circa 2009
There's great satisfaction in setting a physical goal and achieving it, whether it's to lose 30 pounds, or run a 4 minute mile. For me, the next few weeks will be hard as I whittle away at my frame to get back into all of my favourite summer clothes, but I've been there before and I know I can do it again. 
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[Site Update] Can you read this? Then you just might be average.

05/02/2011

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Hey Everyone,

As long as I've been blogging and running this site, I've sort of been trying to determine who I'm writing for. Who do I want reading this? I'd like to think that the work I put out is more deserving than to become birdcage lining (I'm not sure who lines their birdcages with a computer monitor when a newspaper works better) but I haven't really pinned down an audience. After some careful thinking in my thinking chair (more on that later), I've determined that the vast majority of men need help and I don't have a camera.

Why are those two things related you might ask? Well, because I have lots of menswear knowledge to offer, and I don't think that the common menswear magazines or style manuals are doing a good enough job educating men in the matters of style. So I'm going to be putting out a lot more educational resources for the average man. On the other hand, I really enjoy do specific style shoots for guys with a more refined sense of style, but I just don't have a camera to head out on to the street with to take those shoots. Furthermore, I've put on a few pounds that I need to shave before I start doing shoots, not because I'm self-conscious about my body, but because some of my clothes literally don't fit anymore. So for now I'm going to focus on the educational stuff, and when I get a good camera and some gym time I'll put out some more advanced material. for now, a lot of my more inspirational material will appear on my inspiration blog in the form of photos I find lying around on the internet.

So, I hope you enjoy the material coming out soon, and please let me know what you think in the comments.

- Mr. S
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[Video] Presenting "The Blueprint" Episode 1 - The Suit (Rough Cut)

04/27/2011

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After hours and hours of work, I'm proud to present the first episode of my new series "The Blueprint", a video series educating men on the foundational elements of style. This is just a rough cut, but I want to share it with you. Feel free to send me an e-mail at mail@mrsartorial.com to let me know what you think. If you're interested in keeping up with future videos, sign up for my mailing list and I'll keep you posted. Without further ado, a video in 4 parts:
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[Ask Mr. Sartorial] April 27, 2011

04/27/2011

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John asks: Do you have thoughts and/or resources for how the proper way jeans should fit? And should you buy jeans long(er) and get them tailored?

Answer: Oh boy, that's a big question to answer. First, let me address the length. If you can get jeans that are close to perfect of the rack, I say go for it. Most jeans these days, especially at the higher end are only offered in a standard 36" inseam which then have to be tailored. This is nice because you can get that perfect length and decide what sort of stitching you want on the hem. If you're taller than that, you'll have to look for special "Long" jeans.

Now, as for the perfect fit, this depends entirely on your style. Some guys are really into the skinny jeans look (I'll pass, thank you) and other guys like to wear their pants so loose they're falling off of them. I think a good middle of the road approach is to go with a clean, tailored fit that complements your body. Funny but true, girls seem to like it when guys wear good "ass" jeans (just like we like it when they do), so find jeans that fit close to your body, but not tight, and are easy to button/zip up. In darker colours this style of jean can be worn in slightly dressier circumstances (like out to a club). A good place to start is the Levi's 501, an icon in the industry. Try a pair on as a benchmark to start and see if you want to go more more tailored or more relaxed from there. 


Keller Asks: I apologize because I fear this question has been asked to death - but it refers to slim chinos. I've seen this link and heard a lot of advice about them, but still not sure what kind of consensus to arrive at. I'm 5'9'' and 137 pounds, basically very skinny. 484 jeans fit me great and I love the super slim cut, but I'm willing to throw down a good bit for a pair of excellent chinos. Basically these would be worn without creases and casually, optimally as a spring/fall piece. Perhaps I'm shooting into an unanswerable hole here, but I just wanted to see if you could offer your thoughts. Thanks!

Answer: Hi Keller, thanks for the question. It seems to me like you've done a good amount of research and now you just need to pull the trigger on something. Smartest thing to do is just go try a few pairs on. If you like the 484 jean, try them on before you head out shopping or bring them with you to make sure you get a similar fit. If you can't find a good brand nearby and you're buying online, then take the measurements of the 484 jeans and use those to compare to the measurements of good chinos online. You don't need to spend a fortune on chinos, just look for something of decent quality from a good name and don't pay a cent more. If you're looking for some more brands, check out a similar question I answered here. You might make a mistake the first time, but don't spend so much on them that it haunts you. Mistakes are normal when trying to develop your sense of style and fit (I've got more than a few suits I'm unhappy with to prove it). The bottom line is there's only so much I can do for you and you're definitely ready to get out there to find a good pair. Best of luck!



Kong Asks: Dear Mr. Sartorial, I'm 5'9 and 155 pounds I have a fit question. I recently bought this cardigan from Urban Outfitters in a medium. The medium fits me pretty well (a tad tight) but it looks good with a button down, really streamlined. But I'm afraid that it would shrink so maybe I should buy the large; which comes to my question how should a cardigan fit? Should it be tight or kinda slouchy look i see a lot of guys wear. Thank you and by the way love your blog!

Answer: Hi Kong, I'm glad you like the blog. Thanks for the question! Now, my initial reaction is to tell you that you should definitely be a medium. Large just seems like too much for you, but let me ask you a couple of questions to help you out. First, what's the cardigan made out of? If it's cotton, cashmere or wool, it is going to stretch and bag out over time. there might be some initial tightness after you wash it/dry clean it and just make sure you follow the instructions to avoid shrinking. After that it will continue to loosen up. Also make sure you're happy with the other elements of fit, not just the waist. For example, the medium probably has the best sleeves for you.

As for whether a cardigan should fit tight or slouchy, that's all about your own style. Personally, I like mine to fit very close to the body like a vest, but I know other guys who wear them slouchy too. Which category you fit into is up to you, because it can be done both ways. Based on the fact that you like to wear it with a button down, slimmer is probably better.

I hope that helps you out, but don't be afraid to follow up.

Thanks for all the questions guys! Looking forward to receiving more. Ask me anything about men's style or fashion here.

-Mr. S
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[Self-Improvement] It's Never Too Late to Reinvent Yourself

04/26/2011

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I saw this photo of Marc Jacobs last night on ye olde Tumblrs and it got me thinking. No, not about my proclivity for featuring topless men on my site. Rather, it got me commiserating about the capacity for men to reinvent themselves in both a physical and intellectual way. For a lot of guys getting on later in life, it's easy to feel like the die has been cast. If you haven't discovered your own sense of style yet, or achieved that goal of physical fitness, or learned that new language or started that new hobby, it feels like it's too late, that the train has left the station. 

Then I think of something really key about the way Marc Jacobs looks now. He didn't look anything like this even a few years ago. In fact, if you hold up a photo of him as late as 2006 to the way he looks now, you probably wouldn't think that they're the same person. What I find so inspiring about that is that Marc Jacobs is just about 50 now. He made all of those changes to his lifestyle when he was in his mid-40s.

I mean, just consider that the badass-looking man shown above is the same person as this guy, mild-mannered Marc Jacobs circa 2006:


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I'm a firm believer that there's something more to developing your own style than just the whimsy and silliness with which fashion is typically regarded. While we often think of intellectual development, style is a form of physical development, which is just as important. You have the capacity to reinvent yourself in a number of ways, but none is more profound in the eyes of the masses than a physical reinvention. The effect that it has on you may seem a trifling thing until everyone starts responding to you differently, which in turn gives you more confidence in your abilities. It's called the halo effect. The way in which others simply reacting to us changes everything should never be underestimated. It's the key to that first impression that everyone seems to go on about. So I want to urge you, no matter what age you are, to evaluate yourself and see if there is any way to up your style game. Are you putting forward the best version of yourself at every given moment? If not, that's where well-developed style can open doors for you. It's the difference between getting that girl's number or not, being promoted or not, getting picked out of the crowd as someone special or not. The skills and intellect you bring to the table are absolutely vital, but you never get the chance to show them off if someone doesn't see something special in you before you open your mouth and they get to know you. That's what style can really do for you. It's either that or be really really good looking (Seriously, there are studies...)

I'd love to hear what you think about this in the comments.

Thanks for reading!

- Mr. S
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[How To] Ask a Style Question Online

04/22/2011

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Like most other style bloggers online, I get asked a lot of questions about different aspects of style, and a lot of them are questions about personal style. ie. "Which of these skinny chino should I get?" I always want to do my absolute best to answer these questions, and that's why I'm writing this. Hopefully it will allow us all to ask better questions and provide better answers online.



The different types of questions:

1) Where can I find "X"?

"X" being a brand or a specific type of item (eg. shaving kit). I don't personally have a problem with the way people ask these questions unless it's a really broad category and I can't provide a specific enough answer

2) Who makes a good "X"?

More or less the same as above, but when you ask please provide an idea of how much you are looking to spend on the item in question. Also, please let me know what your idea of "good" is. In the market there's a lot more levels of "good" than there used to be.

3) I'm trying to find a good "x" for myself

These are the toughest questions to answer. More specific than just a general item, it's a request for something specific, a combination of the above two questions. If you want a good answer, tell the person your relevant measurements (height and weight is always a good default), maybe one style detail about yourself (eg. I want something a bit more preppy), an idea of something you have now that fits the way you like, your budget for the item, and any fit issues you consistently have (eg. my thighs never fit into pants). In some circumstances it's a good choice to tell them your complexion as well (eg. I have fair skin, blue eyes, dark brown hair). All this info will get you the best answer.

4) How do I wear "x" style OR How do I wear "x" with "x"?

To answer these questions, it's another case where the more info you share the better. If you want to integrate a new style, share little bit about your existing wardrobe or maybe even some of the attempts you've made before If you want to wear "x" with "x", share a bit about your style, your measurements and your complexion. A lot of the same stuff as above.


In general, the more info you share when asking a style question, the better the answer you'll get. Every blogger I talk to is always happy to answer these questions, but often can't give the best answer because they don't have enough info. By sharing the info I talk about above, you'll be much happier with the responses you get.

If you want to ask me a question about style or fashion, you can ask me here.

If you have any other ideas for helping ask better questions, please share in the comments.

Thanks for reading!

-Mr. S
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[Tales From The Sales Floor] Suit Yourself!

04/20/2011

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This is my first attempt at Tales From The Sales Floor, so please give me all the feedback you can in the comments. Thanks!

If you've worked in sales, you'll know that a wife or husband can either be your best friend, or your worst enemy. Just keep that in mind. It all started when this guy came up to me by the shirt wall. He was a slightly shorter, balding man wearing a baggy dress shirt and a pair of trousers, "I need a new shirt" he said. Not a problem. I measured his neck: 16 1/2" I told him. "No, that can't be right," he muttered, "are you sure it's not bigger?" I paused and looked at him for a second "Trust me, I've been doing this a long time... how about we just give it a try." He reluctantly agreed. We found him a shirt and got him in to the change room. When he came out, he had a look of shock on his face. "Wow! Look how great this fits! Fantastic!" "See, perfect fit" I told him with a sly grin. "I'll take it" he exclaimed before heading back into the change room. He came back out a moment later and we headed to the register. I punched in his information, scanned the shirt and got his credit card. Simple shirt sale right? Well, almost. 
His wife came up to us. She had a very cosmopolitan look and an arrogant appearance to her. I could tell before she opened her mouth that she liked to be in charge. He grabbed the shirt to show her, "Look honey, I'm a 16 and a half, would you believe it?" She looked at me with disdain. "He's an 18." She said coldly. I tried to avoid laughing at how ridiculous a statement that was. An 18" neck in that shirt would look like a tablecloth on him. "The 16 and a half fit perfectly." I responded with a smile. "Let's just see about that. Get us an 18." Despite her tone, I enthusiastically grabbed her an 18", eager to prove her wrong. She took it from me and dragged her husband back into the change room. As soon as he changed she went in with him, so I didn't get a chance to see the 18". They both came out a few minutes later, him holding a shirt in his hand. He raised it towards me with the look of a dog who'd been smacked in the nose with a newspaper. "I'll take the 18" he muttered. "Are you sure?" I asked. He paused for a second. "He'll take the 18" his wife said from behind him. He nodded glumly. "I'm sorry but I can't sell you the 18" I said firmly to his wife. It was obvious she was in charge so there was no point explaining that to him. "It doesn't fit him properly and I can't have something that doesn't fit him properly representing my work." She screwed her face up like she was going to spit on me, then marched up to me and grabbed the shirt out of his hands, leaving the change room area. He followed behind, perhaps just relieved that someone had made a decision. Realizing the sale was gone, I just went to cleaning up the garbage from the unpacked shirt. I learned later that they had paid for the shirt in the shoe department.

It wasn't the first time I refused service to someone because they weren't making rational decisions, and it wouldn't be the last time.

Shopping Tip #1: If you're in a reputable store and an experienced sales associate who has measured you tells you what size you are in something, just go with it, even if you feel a little doubtful. It's not in their best interests to lie to you. A lot of guys get a certain size stuck in their head, but sizes are different between manufacturers, and we change size all the time.

Shopping Tip #2: Grow a pair and shop for yourself. Don't let your wife, or your mother tell you what size you should wear, or what clothes look best on you. In my experience the average woman has little or no idea about menswear, but because clothing is considered a feminine domain women are automatically considered experts. Ask yourself "How did I buy clothes before I was in a relationship?" And I pray the answer isn't that your mother bought them.

Thanks for reading! Again, as this is my first attempt, please be critical in what you hated and what you liked about this type of post and let me know in the comments. Thanks!

- Mr. S
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[Site Update] New Segment! Tales From the Sales Floor

04/20/2011

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Hey uys,

As some of you might know, I've got a lot of experience selling menswear, and there are a lot of good stories that come along with the territory. So what I'm going to do is launch a new segment today called Tales From the Sales Floor. I'll tell a story about a unique experience I had working with a client, and then share a couple of tips for having a better shopping experience the next time you're looking for some new gear. Obviously I won't be mentioning any names, but I think this will shed some light on some good buying habits. 

Thanks for reading!

- Mr. S
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[Site Update] Comments are now open!

04/20/2011

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Hey guys,

Up until now I've had to approve every comment. I've been doing this to avoid having tons of spam comments, but I haven't gotten to many, so for now I'm going to open comments to facilitate discussion on my posts. Hopefully this will lead to better conversations about what I'm posting\

Thanks for reading!

- Mr. S
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Gentlemen, Put Your Handkerchief on a Leash!

04/19/2011

2 Comments

 
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Look guys, I don't know where this floppy handkerchief business game from. Maybe it's in rebellion to the Mad Men squared off handkerchief that's been so prevalent for the last several years. Maybe it's a sign of the times, that we don't want to feel uptight and stuffy. Maybe guys are jut all out of starch... and self-respect. Whatever the reason, it's got to stop. 


Flopping your handkerchief all over the place has little or no artistic value, it doesn't display sartorial skill of any sort, and it is not a display of your "sprezzatura". I realize that maybe a lot of guys just have no idea how to fold a handkerchief, so I recommend that you check out this handy video guide by The Art of Manliness. That's a good start, but a simple Google search will likely give you access to many more guides, so there's really no excuse.

Now I'm not saying that your handkerchief should always be a perfect square. There's lot's of room for your handkerchief to roam around and show some life. Let's have a look at it when it's done right via Tom Ford:
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See, the big difference here is that there is some artistry to the handkerchief. It's not just hanging out all over the place without any purpose. Look guys, let's just agree to get this one under wraps before it gets out of control, so keep your handkerchief on a leash. Style is about discipline.

- Mr. S
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